Forest Fawn Granny Square Crochet Cardigan Free Pattern
Forest Fawn Granny Square Crochet Cardigan — Free Beginner Pattern
Introduction
If you have never held a crochet hook before, this is the perfect first garment for you. The Forest Fawn Cardigan is built from twelve simple, identical squares — each one only four rounds — that you stitch together into a boxy little toddler cardigan (size 2–3 years). Because you make one small square at a time, you get a finished "win" every twenty minutes, and you never have to keep track of a giant, scary sweater all at once.
The finished cardigan is soft, light, and drapey, worked in smooth sport-weight cotton so every stitch shows clearly. Butter yellow squares frame crisp white ones in a cheerful checkerboard, and a tiny crocheted deer face peeks out from the center of the back panel. It measures about 12 inches wide and 16 inches long — a straight, boxy shape that's forgiving to fit and easy to seam.
Every single abbreviation, stitch, and step is explained below as if you've never picked up a hook. Take it one square at a time, and by the end you'll have a handmade heirloom.
Materials Needed
- Yarn: Sport weight cotton yarn (CYC category 2 / fine), approximately 875 yards total: 525 yards butter yellow (MC) and 350 yards white (CC). The sample used a smooth mercerized cotton, 50 g / 164 yds per ball.
- Crochet hook: Size E/4 (3.5 mm), or whatever size you need to match gauge.
- Stitch markers: At least 8 (to mark corners and armholes).
- Tapestry needle: A blunt-tipped needle with a large eye, for seaming and weaving in ends.
- Scissors for cutting yarn.
- Optional: 4 small buttons (about ½ inch / 12 mm), plus a short length of dark yarn or embroidery floss for the deer's eyes.
Finished size: To fit toddler size 2–3 years. Chest circumference 24 in (61 cm); body length from shoulder 16 in (41 cm); sleeve length from underarm 8 in (20 cm); body width flat 12 in (30 cm).
Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary
- ch — chain. Wrap the yarn over your hook and pull it through the loop on your hook. This makes a small "V" of yarn.
- sl st — slip stitch. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, and pull that loop straight through both the stitch and the loop on your hook. It joins things without adding height.
- sc — single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over again, pull through both loops. (1 loop remains.)
- dc — double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through last 2 loops. (1 loop remains.)
- hdc — half double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops at once.
- dc2tog — double crochet two together (a decrease). Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops; yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops; yarn over, pull through all 3 remaining loops. Turns 2 stitches into 1.
- sc2tog — single crochet two together (a decrease). Insert hook into first stitch, pull up a loop; insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook); yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.
- MC — main color (butter yellow).
- CC — contrast color (white).
- st / sts — stitch / stitches.
- rep — repeat.
- rnd — round (one complete circle of crochet).
- magic ring — an adjustable loop of yarn you crochet into, then pull tight so there's no hole in the center.
- fasten off — cut the yarn a few inches from your work and pull the tail through the last loop to lock it.
- right sides together — placing the "good" front faces of two pieces touching each other.
- back loop only — working into just the rear loop of each stitch, leaving the front loop free (creates a flatter seam).
Gauge
Gauge: One solid granny square = 4 x 4 in (10 x 10 cm) after blocking. In stitch terms, 4 rounds = 4 inches. Because each square is 4 inches wide, 3 squares across = 12-inch body width, and 4 squares tall = 16-inch body length.
Why gauge matters: If your squares come out bigger or smaller than 4 inches, your whole cardigan will be bigger or smaller than the measurements above — the sleeves may not fit the armholes, and the body may not fit the child. Gauge is how we make sure your sweater matches the pattern.
How to check it: Crochet one complete square exactly as written. Lay it flat and measure across the middle. If it's larger than 4 inches, try again with a smaller hook; if it's smaller, try a larger hook. Wash and gently block your test square first, because cotton relaxes and grows slightly when wet — always measure after blocking.
Beginner Tips Before You Start
- Make one practice square first. Your very first square will be your loosest and most uneven. Treat it as practice, then start fresh for the real thing.
- Don't pull your yarn tight. Beginners tend to choke the yarn. Keep a relaxed, even tension so your squares stay soft and reach 4 inches.
- Use stitch markers in every corner. Place a marker in each ch-2 corner space so you always know where the next corner increase goes.
- Count your stitches at the end of each round. The counts in parentheses are your safety net — if a round is off, fix it now rather than later.
- Keep all 12 squares the same size. Lay finished squares flat and compare them; if one is noticeably bigger, go down a hook size for the rest.
- Weave in ends as you go. It's far less tedious than saving a dozen tails for the very end.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Square Layout and Color Plan
You will make 12 solid granny squares total, each 4 x 4 in (10 x 10 cm): 6 in MC (butter yellow) and 6 in CC (white). Arrange them in a 3-wide x 4-tall grid in a checkerboard:
- Row 1 (top): MC, CC, MC
- Row 2: CC, MC, CC
- Row 3: MC, CC, MC
- Row 4 (bottom): CC, MC, CC
The center column (plus the two center squares of the top and bottom rows) becomes the back panel. The two outer columns become the left and right front panels. The deer appliqué is centered on the back panel.
Solid Granny Square (make 12; 6 in MC, 6 in CC)
Worked in the round; you do not turn between rounds.
Round 1: With chosen color, make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc into ring, ch 2, [3 dc into ring, ch 2] three times, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (12 dc, 4 ch-2 corners)
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each of next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 corner space, dc in each of next 3 dc; rep from * around, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (28 dc, 4 ch-2 corners)
Round 3: Ch 3, dc in each dc to next corner, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 corner space, dc in each dc to next corner; rep from * around, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (44 dc, 4 ch-2 corners)
Round 4: Ch 3, dc in each dc to next corner, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 corner space, dc in each dc to next corner; rep from * around, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (60 dc, 4 ch-2 corners)
Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail. Block each square to 4 x 4 in and allow to dry.
Join-As-You-Go Assembly
Join squares with a slip-stitch seam worked through the back loops only, holding squares right sides together.
- Join the 3 squares of Row 1 side by side along their vertical edges.
- Join the 3 squares of Row 2 side by side, then join Row 2 to Row 1 along the horizontal edge.
- Repeat for Rows 3 and 4, joining each new row to the row above. You now have a flat 3 x 4 rectangle, 12 x 16 in (30 x 41 cm).
- Fold the rectangle in half vertically so the two outer columns meet at center front; the center column is the back. Seam the two front panels to the back along the side edges from the bottom up, leaving the top 4 in (10 cm) of each side seam open for the armholes.
Set-In Sleeves (make 2)
Each sleeve is worked from the armhole downward in joined rounds. Repeat all rounds for the second sleeve.
Round 1: With MC, join yarn at underarm of one armhole. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 1 dc in each dc and 1 dc in each seam along the armhole edge, distributing 36 dc evenly around the armhole. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (36 dc)
Round 2: Ch 3, dc in each dc around, join with sl st. (36 dc)
Round 3 (decrease): Ch 3, dc in each dc to last 2 dc, dc2tog over last 2 dc, join with sl st. (35 dc)
Rounds 4–5: Ch 3, dc in each dc around, join with sl st. (35 dc)
Round 6 (decrease): Ch 3, dc in each dc to last 2 dc, dc2tog, join with sl st. (34 dc)
Rounds 7–8: Ch 3, dc in each dc around, join with sl st. (34 dc)
Round 9 (decrease): Ch 3, dc in each dc to last 2 dc, dc2tog, join with sl st. (33 dc)
Rounds 10–11: Ch 3, dc in each dc around, join with sl st. (33 dc)
Round 12 (decrease): Ch 3, dc in each dc to last 2 dc, dc2tog, join with sl st. (32 dc)
Rounds 13–14: Ch 3, dc in each dc around, join with sl st. (32 dc)
Round 15 (cuff): Ch 1, sc in each dc around, join with sl st. (32 sc)
Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for the second sleeve.
Deer-Face Appliqué
Worked flat in CC, with a small amount of MC for the nose.
Head (CC): Ch 6.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (5 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc to last sc, 2 sc in last sc. (7 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across. (7 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in each sc to last 2 sc, sc2tog. (5 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across. (5 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Ears (make 2, CC): Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in last ch. Fasten off.
Nose (MC): Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in last ch. (2 sc) Fasten off.
Appliqué assembly: Using the long tail, whipstitch the head to the center of the back panel, about 2 in (5 cm) below the top edge. Sew one ear to each top corner of the head, angling outward. Sew the nose to the lower center of the head. With dark yarn or embroidery floss, add two small straight-stitch eyes above the nose.
Front Band and Neck Edge
With MC, join yarn at the bottom right front corner. Work sc evenly up the right front edge, around the neckline, and down the left front edge, working 1 sc in each dc and 2 sc in each corner. Ch 1, turn, and work a second row of sc. Fasten off.
Buttons and Buttonholes
Sew 4 buttons evenly spaced along the left front band. On the right front band, work buttonholes by skipping 2 sc and ch 2 at each button position on the final band row. Sew buttons to correspond.
Assembly and Finishing
Seaming: All square joins use a slip-stitch seam through the back loops only, with right sides together. To do this, hold two squares with their good faces touching, insert your hook through the back loop of the matching stitches on both squares at once, and work a sl st in each pair of stitches along the edge. This makes a neat, flat seam that hides the raw edges inside.
Weaving in ends: Thread each tail onto the tapestry needle and run it back and forth through the wrong side of the fabric for about 2 inches, then trim close. Don't knot — weaving holds better and stays flat.
Blocking: Lightly wet-block the finished cardigan to measurements: chest 24 in, body length 16 in, sleeve length 8 in. Pin it flat on a towel or blocking mat, mist with water (or steam gently), and let it dry completely. This sets the granny squares flat and evens out the seams. Never wring or hang a wet cotton garment — lay it flat to dry.
Pro Tips and Variations
- Change the colors: Swap butter yellow and white for any two shades — sage green and cream, dusty pink and oatmeal, or navy and mustard — to make it a different season's cardigan. Keep the checkerboard so the deer still pops.
- Adjust the size: To make it bigger, add one more row of squares (each square adds 4 inches of length) or one more column (each adds 4 inches of width). Remember to add extra sleeve rounds to match the longer armhole.
- Substitute the yarn: Any sport-weight (category 2) yarn works — cotton blend, bamboo, or a soft acrylic for easy washing. Always crochet a new gauge square, since different fibers behave differently.
- Skip the deer: Leave the back panel plain for a simple everyday cardigan, or replace the deer with a crocheted heart or star for a different theme.
