Honeycomb Hush Corner-to-Corner Blanket Free Pattern

Honeycomb Hush Corner-to-Corner Blanket Free Pattern

Introduction

If you have never picked up a crochet hook before, this Honeycomb Hush blanket is the perfect first project to fall in love with. It is worked in a simple, repeating "corner-to-corner" technique where each little square is built from just a few basic stitches, so you never have to learn anything complicated. The finished blanket is a soft, squishy 30-inch square that feels warm and cozy in your hands, with a sweet pixelated sleeping bear nestled in the center. Worked in honey gold, cream, and soft brown, it looks like a warm jar of honey with a sleepy friend tucked inside. By the time you finish, you will have a handmade heirloom-quality baby gift and a whole new skill you can be proud of.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Worsted weight (category 4) acrylic or cotton-blend yarn, approximately 900 yards total:
  • 600 yards in Honey Gold (Color A)
  • 250 yards in Cream (Color B)
  • 50 yards in Soft Brown (Color C, for the bear features)
• Crochet hook: Size I/9 (5.5 mm)
• Stitch markers: At least 4 (to mark corners and color-change points)
• Tapestry needle: A blunt-tipped yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors: Sharp craft scissors for cutting yarn
• Finished size: Approximately 30 inches x 30 inches (76 cm x 76 cm) after blocking

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

Every abbreviation used in this pattern is listed here. Read through this list once before you begin, and come back to it any time a symbol confuses you. You do not need to memorize anything.

• ch – chain. Make a loop with your yarn, pull a new loop through it, and repeat. Each loop you pull through is one chain stitch. Chains look like a little braid.
• dc – double crochet. Yarn over (wrap yarn around hook), insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through the last 2 loops. This makes a taller stitch than a single crochet.
• sc – single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. This is the shortest, simplest stitch.
• sl st – slip stitch. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, and pull the yarn straight through both the stitch and the loop on your hook at the same time. This makes a tiny, flat joining stitch.
• st / sts – stitch / stitches. One completed loop or unit of crochet work.
• yo – yarn over. Wrap the working yarn around your hook from back to front.
• tog – together. Used when two stitches are combined into one (not used in this pattern, but you may see it in others).
• block (C2C block) – one "pixel" of this blanket. Each block is made of a ch 3 plus 3 dc worked into the same space. One block equals one small square of the design.
• C2C – corner-to-corner. A crochet technique where you work diagonally from one corner of the blanket to the opposite corner, adding blocks on one side and removing them on the other.
• increase – adding one more block to a row so the blanket grows wider.
• decrease – removing one block from a row so the blanket grows narrower.
• fasten off – cut the yarn a few inches from your work, pull the tail all the way through the last loop, and pull tight so it does not unravel.
• right side (RS) – the front, prettier face of the blanket that will show when it is finished.
• join – connect the end of a round to its beginning, usually with a slip stitch.
• round – one complete circuit of stitches worked around the edge of the blanket (used in the border).
• row – one straight line of stitches worked back and forth (used in the main blanket).

Gauge

Gauge: 8 C2C pixel squares = 5.5 inches (14 cm).

Gauge simply means "how big your stitches turn out." It matters because if your blocks are larger or smaller than mine, your finished blanket will not be 30 inches square, and the bear motif may look stretched or squished. To check your gauge, crochet a small practice swatch of about 8 blocks (work 8 increase rows, then stop). Lay it flat and measure across 8 blocks. If your 8 blocks measure more than 5.5 inches, your stitches are too loose — try a smaller hook (H/8, 5.0 mm). If they measure less than 5.5 inches, your stitches are too tight — try a larger hook (J/10, 6.0 mm). Do not skip this step; it takes only a few minutes and saves hours of frustration.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use stitch markers to track your corners. Place a marker in the very first block of each row and in the last block. This helps you see where to join and where to add your next block, especially while you are still learning.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. New crocheters often grip the yarn hard, which makes stiff, tiny blocks. Keep your tension relaxed and even so your blanket stays soft and drapey.
• Count your blocks at the end of every row. The stitch count is written in parentheses at the end of each row. If your count is off, fix it right away rather than discovering it 20 rows later.
• Change colors on the last stitch of a block. To switch from Honey Gold to Cream, work the last double crochet of the block but pull the new color through the final two loops. This keeps the color change neat.
• Keep your unused colors tidy. Wind small amounts of Cream and Soft Brown onto bobbins (or small balls) so they do not tangle while you carry them along the edge for the bear motif.
• Work in good light and take breaks. C2C is repetitive and relaxing, but tired eyes make counting mistakes. A few minutes of rest every 20 minutes keeps your work accurate.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Color key: A = Honey Gold, B = Cream, C = Soft Brown. Each "block" is made of ch 3 + 3 dc worked into the same space. The blanket is worked diagonally, growing wider for the first half, then narrowing to the opposite corner.

Section 1: The Increase Rows (Rows 1–20)

Row 1 (increase): With A, ch 6. Dc in the 4th ch from hook and in each of the next 2 ch. (1 block)

Row 2 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Dc in the 4th ch from hook and in each of the next 2 ch, sl st to the top of the previous block, ch 3, then work 3 dc into the same space. (2 blocks)

Row 3 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Dc in the 4th ch from hook and next 2 ch, sl st to the top of the last block of the previous row, ch 3, 3 dc in the same space. Then sl st to the next block along the edge, ch 3, 3 dc in the same space. (3 blocks)

Row 4 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Work 1 new block into the starting chain, then join and work 1 block into each of the 3 blocks along the previous row's edge. (4 blocks)

Row 5 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Work 1 new block into the starting chain, then 1 block into each of the 4 blocks along the edge. (5 blocks)

Row 6 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Work 1 new block into the starting chain, then 1 block into each of the 5 blocks along the edge. (6 blocks)

Row 7 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Work 1 new block into the starting chain, then 1 block into each of the 6 blocks along the edge. (7 blocks)

Row 8 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Work 1 new block into the starting chain, then 1 block into each of the 7 blocks along the edge. (8 blocks)

Row 9 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Work 1 new block into the starting chain, then 1 block into each of the 8 blocks along the edge. (9 blocks)

Row 10 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Work 1 new block into the starting chain, then 1 block into each of the 9 blocks along the edge. (10 blocks)

Row 11 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Work 1 new block into the starting chain, then 1 block into each of the 10 blocks along the edge. (11 blocks)

Row 12 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Work 1 new block into the starting chain, then 1 block into each of the 11 blocks along the edge. (12 blocks)

Row 13 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Work 1 new block into the starting chain, then 1 block into each of the 12 blocks along the edge. (13 blocks)

Row 14 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Work 1 new block into the starting chain, then 1 block into each of the 13 blocks along the edge. (14 blocks)

Row 15 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Work 1 new block into the starting chain, then 1 block into each of the 14 blocks along the edge. (15 blocks)

Row 16 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Work 1 new block into the starting chain, then 1 block into each of the 15 blocks along the edge. (16 blocks)

Row 17 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Work 1 new block into the starting chain, then 1 block into each of the 16 blocks along the edge. (17 blocks)

Row 18 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Work 1 new block into the starting chain, then 1 block into each of the 17 blocks along the edge. (18 blocks)

Row 19 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Work 1 new block into the starting chain, then 1 block into each of the 18 blocks along the edge. (19 blocks)

Row 20 (increase): Ch 6, turn. Work 1 new block into the starting chain, then 1 block into each of the 19 blocks along the edge. (20 blocks)

Section 2: The Bear Motif (Rows 21–40)

Important: In this section you keep 20 blocks per row. You add 1 new block on one side and stop 1 block short on the other side, so the row stays the same width while the bear face appears in the center. Read each row from the side where you begin. Change colors by finishing the last dc of a block with the new color.

Row 21: Work 5 blocks in A, 9 blocks in B, 6 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 22: Work 5 blocks in A, 10 blocks in B, 5 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 23: Work 4 blocks in A, 2 blocks in C (ear), 7 blocks in B, 2 blocks in C (ear), 5 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 24: Work 4 blocks in A, 2 blocks in C (ear), 7 blocks in B, 2 blocks in C (ear), 5 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 25: Work 3 blocks in A, 2 blocks in C (ear), 9 blocks in B, 2 blocks in C (ear), 4 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 26: Work 3 blocks in A, 14 blocks in B, 3 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 27: Work 3 blocks in A, 14 blocks in B, 3 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 28: Work 3 blocks in A, 4 blocks in B, 1 block in C (eye), 4 blocks in B, 1 block in C (eye), 4 blocks in B, 3 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 29: Work 3 blocks in A, 4 blocks in B, 1 block in C (eye), 4 blocks in B, 1 block in C (eye), 4 blocks in B, 3 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 30: Work 3 blocks in A, 14 blocks in B, 3 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 31: Work 3 blocks in A, 14 blocks in B, 3 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 32: Work 3 blocks in A, 6 blocks in B, 2 blocks in C (nose), 6 blocks in B, 3 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 33: Work 3 blocks in A, 6 blocks in B, 2 blocks in C (nose), 6 blocks in B, 3 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 34: Work 3 blocks in A, 7 blocks in B, 1 block in C (mouth), 6 blocks in B, 3 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 35: Work 3 blocks in A, 14 blocks in B, 3 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 36: Work 3 blocks in A, 14 blocks in B, 3 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 37: Work 3 blocks in A, 14 blocks in B, 3 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 38: Work 3 blocks in A, 14 blocks in B, 3 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 39: Work 3 blocks in A, 14 blocks in B, 3 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Row 40: Work 3 blocks in A, 14 blocks in B, 3 blocks in A. (20 blocks)

Section 3: The Decrease Rows (Rows 41–60)

How to decrease: Turn your work, then slip stitch across the first block instead of adding a new one. Then work 1 block into each remaining block along the edge. This removes one block from the row.

Row 41 (decrease): With A, turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 19 blocks. (19 blocks)

Row 42 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 18 blocks. (18 blocks)

Row 43 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 17 blocks. (17 blocks)

Row 44 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 16 blocks. (16 blocks)

Row 45 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 15 blocks. (15 blocks)

Row 46 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 14 blocks. (14 blocks)

Row 47 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 13 blocks. (13 blocks)

Row 48 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 12 blocks. (12 blocks)

Row 49 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 11 blocks. (11 blocks)

Row 50 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 10 blocks. (10 blocks)

Row 51 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 9 blocks. (9 blocks)

Row 52 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 8 blocks. (8 blocks)

Row 53 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 7 blocks. (7 blocks)

Row 54 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 6 blocks. (6 blocks)

Row 55 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 5 blocks. (5 blocks)

Row 56 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 4 blocks. (4 blocks)

Row 57 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 3 blocks. (3 blocks)

Row 58 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into each of the remaining 2 blocks. (2 blocks)

Row 59 (decrease): Turn. Sl st across the first block, then work 1 block into the remaining 1 block. (1 block)

Row 60 (final block): Turn. Sl st across the block to close the corner. Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail. (0 blocks — corner complete)

Section 4: The Border

Border Round 1: With right side facing and using B (Cream), join the yarn in any corner. Ch 1, then work sc evenly around the entire blanket, working 3 sc in each corner so the corners stay flat. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (Even sc count around; 3 sc per corner)

Border Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, working 3 sc in each corner. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off. (Even sc count around; 3 sc per corner)

Assembly and Finishing

Weaving in ends: Thread each yarn tail onto your tapestry needle. Turn the blanket to the wrong side and weave the tail in and out through the backs of several stitches (about 2 inches), then reverse direction and weave back through a few more stitches to lock it. Trim the excess yarn close to the work. Do this for every color change and for the starting and ending tails.

Seaming: This blanket is worked in one continuous piece, so there are no seams to sew. If you find any small gaps at color changes, use the matching yarn and your tapestry needle to close them with a few tiny stitches on the wrong side.

Blocking: Lay the blanket flat on a clean towel or blocking mat. Lightly mist it with water (or use a steam iron held an inch above the surface — never press the iron directly onto acrylic yarn, as it can melt). Gently stretch and pat the blanket into a 30-inch x 30-inch square, squaring up the corners. Pin the corners if needed and let it dry completely before folding or gifting.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the color palette: Swap Honey Gold for soft sage green, Cream for white, and Soft Brown for charcoal to make a woodland-themed blanket. The bear motif works in any color combination.
• Adjust the size: To make a larger blanket, simply add more increase rows before starting the bear motif (for example, increase to 30 blocks per row instead of 20). Keep the bear centered by counting blocks from the middle outward.
• Substitute yarn: Cotton-blend yarn gives a cooler, more breathable blanket for summer babies, while acrylic is machine-washable and extra soft. Always check your gauge again if you change yarn, because different fibers behave differently.
• Add a personal touch: Embroider the baby's initials in one corner using the Soft Brown yarn and a simple chain stitch, or add a small crocheted heart appliqué to the border for an extra-sweet detail.