Gold Scallop Ballet Skirt Free Crochet Pattern

Gold Scallop Ballet Skirt: A Beginner-Friendly Crochet Pattern

If you have ever admired a dancer's soft, swishing skirt and wished you could make one yourself, this is the project for you. The Gold Scallop Ballet Skirt is worked in the round from the waist down, so you never have to sew a single side seam, and it uses only the most beginner-friendly stitches: chain, single crochet, half double crochet, and double crochet. The finished skirt has a gentle A-line shape that flares softly from a comfortable elastic waistband, and the hem finishes with two rows of deep gold scallops that look like little waves or shells. It feels smooth and slightly ribbed in the hand, drapes softly over tights, and adds a touch of ballet-core magic to any outfit. If you can make a chain and a half double crochet, you can make this skirt.

Materials Needed

• Yarn (main color, MC): Medium weight (worsted/aran, CYC 4) acrylic or cotton blend, approximately 400 (450, 500, 550) yards in burgundy.
• Yarn (contrast color, CC): Same weight, approximately 150 (170, 190, 210) yards in gold.
• Hook: 5.5 mm (US I/9) crochet hook, or the size needed to match gauge.
• Stitch marker: One, to mark the beginning of each round.
• Tapestry needle: A blunt-tipped needle with a large eye for weaving in ends.
• Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting yarn.
• Elastic: 3/4-inch-wide elastic, cut to your waist measurement minus 1 inch.

Finished sizes (Child, Teen, Adult Small, Adult Medium): Waist circumference 22 (24, 26, 28) inches; hip circumference 30 (34, 38, 42) inches; length from waist to hem (not counting the scallop border) 12 (14, 16, 18) inches. The scallop border adds about 2.5 inches.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• ch – chain. Make a loop of yarn on your hook, wrap the yarn over the hook, and pull it through the loop. That is one chain.
• sc – single crochet. Insert your hook into the stitch, wrap yarn over the hook, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), wrap yarn over again, and pull through both loops. One loop remains.
• hdc – half double crochet. Wrap yarn over the hook first, insert the hook into the stitch, wrap yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), wrap yarn over again, and pull through all 3 loops at once.
• dc – double crochet. Wrap yarn over the hook, insert the hook into the stitch, wrap yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), wrap yarn over and pull through 2 loops, wrap yarn over again and pull through the last 2 loops.
• sl st – slip stitch. Insert your hook into the stitch, wrap yarn over, and pull that loop straight through the loop on your hook. It joins rounds without adding height.
• st(s) – stitch or stitches.
• sk – skip. Do not work into that stitch; move past it to the next one.
• hdc2tog – half double crochet two together (a decrease). Wrap yarn over, insert hook into the first stitch, pull up a loop, wrap yarn over, insert hook into the second stitch, pull up a loop, wrap yarn over, and pull through all loops on the hook. This turns two stitches into one. (Listed for reference; this pattern uses increases only.)
• 2 hdc in next st – an increase. Work two half double crochet stitches into the same stitch, which makes the skirt wider.
• back loop only – each stitch has two top loops (front and back). Working into the back loop only means you insert your hook under the loop farthest from you, leaving the front loop free. This creates a fold line.
• MC / CC – main color (burgundy) and contrast color (gold).
• Join with sl st – finish the round by making a slip stitch into the first stitch of that round, closing the circle.

Gauge

14 hdc x 12 rounds = 4 inches (10 cm) in half double crochet worked in the round.

Gauge matters because it decides the final size of your skirt. If your stitches are bigger than the gauge, the skirt will come out too wide and too long; if they are smaller, it will be too tight. To check, chain 24, work 14 rows of hdc, and measure the middle 4 inches with a ruler. If you have more than 14 stitches in 4 inches, go up a hook size; if you have fewer, go down a hook size. Always make a swatch before starting the skirt.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use your stitch marker. Place it in the first stitch of every round and move it up as you go. Without it, it is very easy to lose your place in a long round.
• Do not pull the yarn too tight. Tension should be relaxed and even. Tight stitches make a stiff skirt that will not drape.
• Keep the starting chain untwisted. Before you join the first chain into a ring, lay it flat and check that it is not spiraled, or the whole skirt will twist.
• Count your stitches at the end of every increase round. The count in parentheses tells you exactly how many you should have.
• Try the skirt on as you go. Slip it over your hips to check the fit before you commit to the full length.
• Work the folding round loosely. Round 5 creates the waistband casing, and it needs to be roomy enough for elastic to pass through later.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Note: The skirt is worked in the round from the waist down, without turning. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round and move it up as you work. The waistband is created by folding the first few rounds over the elastic.

Waistband

With MC, ch 78 (84, 90, 96) loosely, being careful not to twist the chain. Join with sl st to first ch to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 1, hdc in each ch around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (78, 84, 90, 96 hdc)

Rounds 2–4: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (78, 84, 90, 96 hdc)

Round 5 (folding round): Ch 1, hdc in each st around, working into the back loop only. Join with sl st to first hdc. (78, 84, 90, 96 hdc)

Rounds 6–8: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (78, 84, 90, 96 hdc)

Do not fasten off. The waistband casing is now formed; the elastic will be threaded through after finishing.

Skirt Body

Each increase round adds stitches evenly around, creating the gentle A-line flare. Work the increase rounds exactly as written for your size.

Round 9 (increase round): Ch 1, hdc in first 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (104, 112, 120, 128 hdc)

Rounds 10–14: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (104, 112, 120, 128 hdc)

Round 15 (increase round): Ch 1, hdc in first 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (130, 140, 150, 160 hdc)

Rounds 16–20: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (130, 140, 150, 160 hdc)

Round 21 (increase round): Ch 1, hdc in first 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (156, 168, 180, 192 hdc)

Rounds 22–26: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (156, 168, 180, 192 hdc)

Round 27 (increase round): Ch 1, hdc in first 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (182, 196, 210, 224 hdc)

Rounds 28–32: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (182, 196, 210, 224 hdc)

Round 33 (increase round): Ch 1, hdc in first 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (208, 224, 240, 256 hdc)

Rounds 34–38: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (208, 224, 240, 256 hdc)

Round 39 (increase round): Ch 1, hdc in first 7 sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (234, 252, 270, 288 hdc)

Rounds 40–44: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (234, 252, 270, 288 hdc)

Round 45 (increase round): Ch 1, hdc in first 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (260, 280, 300, 320 hdc)

Rounds 46–50: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (260, 280, 300, 320 hdc)

Round 51 (increase round): Ch 1, hdc in first 9 sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next 9 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (286, 308, 330, 352 hdc)

Rounds 52–56: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (286, 308, 330, 352 hdc)

Round 57 (increase round): Ch 1, hdc in first 10 sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next 10 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (312, 336, 360, 384 hdc)

Rounds 58–62: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (312, 336, 360, 384 hdc)

Round 63 (increase round): Ch 1, hdc in first 11 sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next 11 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (338, 364, 390, 416 hdc)

Rounds 64–68: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (338, 364, 390, 416 hdc)

Round 69 (increase round): Ch 1, hdc in first 12 sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next 12 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (364, 392, 420, 448 hdc)

Rounds 70–74: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (364, 392, 420, 448 hdc)

Round 75 (increase round): Ch 1, hdc in first 13 sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next 13 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (390, 420, 450, 480 hdc)

Rounds 76–80: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. (390, 420, 450, 480 hdc)

For sizes Child and Teen: Work Rounds 76–80 once more. For Adult Small and Adult Medium: Work Rounds 76–80 twice more. The skirt body should measure approximately 12 (14, 16, 18) inches from the folding round.

Gold Scallop Border

Change to CC. Do not fasten off MC; carry it loosely up the inside, or fasten off and weave in later.

Round 1 (CC): Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (390, 420, 450, 480 sc)

Round 2 (CC): Ch 1, sc in first st, *sk next 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * around, ending with sl st to first sc. The number of scallops will be approximately 65 (70, 75, 80).

Round 3 (CC): Ch 1, sc in each st around, working sc in each dc and in each sc of the previous round. Join with sl st to first sc. (390, 420, 450, 480 sc)

Round 4 (CC): Ch 1, sc in first st, *sk next 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first sc.

Round 5 (CC): Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (390, 420, 450, 480 sc) Fasten off CC and weave in ends.

Assembly and Finishing

1. Weave in all ends. Thread each yarn tail onto the tapestry needle and run it back and forth through the inside of the fabric for about 2 inches, then trim close to the fabric.
2. Add the elastic. Cut the elastic to your waist measurement minus 1 inch. Attach a safety pin to one end and thread it through the waistband casing created by the folding round. Overlap the ends by about 1 inch and sew them securely with needle and thread. Sew the casing closed at the folding round if you like, so the elastic cannot twist.
3. Block lightly. Mist the skirt with cool water and lay it flat, gently stretching the scallops open with your fingers. Let it dry completely. Do not press with a hot iron; use a cool iron with a pressing cloth or steam gently.
4. Try it on. Adjust the elastic tension if needed, then enjoy your finished skirt.

Care: Hand wash cold and lay flat to dry.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the colors. Swap burgundy and gold for any two colors you love. A cream body with a blush scallop border makes a sweet everyday skirt, while black and silver feels dramatic.
• Adjust the length. To make the skirt longer, simply work more plain hdc rounds after Round 80 before starting the border. Each extra 12 rounds adds about 4 inches.
• Adjust the width. For a fuller skirt, add one more increase round (hdc in first 14 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat) before the border. For a slimmer fit, skip the final increase round.
• Substitute yarn. A cotton blend gives crisp, defined scallops, while acrylic gives a softer, more affordable drape. Just check your gauge again with any new yarn.