Frosted Leaf Ruff Reindeer: Free Crochet Amigurumi Pattern
Meet Your Frosted Leaf Ruff Reindeer
This little reindeer is the perfect first amigurumi for anyone who has never held a crochet hook before. He is a soft, plush desk buddy made from velvet yarn in pale ice blue and silver, standing about 6 inches (15 cm) tall including his antlers. His body is a simple cylinder, his head a round ball, and around his neck sits a ruffled collar of eight tiny silver crocheted leaves that fan out like autumn foliage. The finished reindeer feels velvety and squishy in your hand, with charcoal embroidered eyes, nose, and hooves giving him a cozy, dark-academia charm. Every stitch is explained below, so even a complete beginner can make him.
Materials Needed
- Ice blue worsted-weight (Category 4) velvet yarn: approx. 90 yd (82 m) for body, head, snout, legs, and ears.
- Silver worsted-weight (Category 4) velvet yarn: approx. 45 yd (41 m) for the leaf ruff and antlers.
- Dark charcoal velvet yarn: a small amount for embroidery (eyes, nose, hooves, antler tips).
- 3.5 mm (E/4) crochet hook for the body, head, snout, legs, ears, and antlers.
- 3.0 mm (D/3) crochet hook for the leaf appliqués (a smaller hook makes a tighter leaf).
- Stitch marker (a safety pin or scrap of yarn works too).
- Tapestry needle (a large blunt needle with an eye big enough for yarn).
- Polyester fiberfill for stuffing.
- Scissors.
Finished size: Height including antlers approx. 6 in (15 cm). Body cylinder approx. 2.75 in (7 cm) tall x 2 in (5 cm) wide. Head approx. 1.75 in (4.5 cm) in diameter. Each leaf approx. 1.5 in (3.8 cm) long x 0.75 in (1.9 cm) wide.
Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary
- ch – chain: yarn over the hook, pull the loop through the loop on your hook. This makes a small link.
- sc – single crochet: insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. One loop remains.
- sl st – slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop straight through the loop on your hook and through the stitch. Used to join.
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together (a decrease): insert hook into the first stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop; insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook); yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. Two stitches become one.
- 2 sc in next st – an increase: work two single crochets into the same stitch, making two stitches where there was one.
- st(s) – stitch(es).
- rnd(s) – round(s): one complete circle of stitches worked in the round.
- FLO – front loop only: work into the loop of the stitch closest to you.
- BLO – back loop only: work into the loop of the stitch farthest from you.
- magic ring – an adjustable loop: wrap yarn around your fingers to form a ring, work your stitches into the ring, then pull the short tail to close the hole tight.
- [ ] – repeat the instructions inside the brackets as many times as stated after them.
- ( ) – the number in parentheses at the end of a line is the total stitch count for that round.
Gauge
Gauge: 20 sc x 22 rounds = 4 in (10 cm) in single crochet worked in the round with the 3.5 mm hook and velvet yarn. Leaf appliqué with the 3.0 mm hook: one finished leaf measures approx. 1.5 in (3.8 cm) long x 0.75 in (1.9 cm) wide.
Why gauge matters: Gauge is how many stitches and rounds fit into 4 inches. If your stitches are bigger than the pattern's, your reindeer will come out larger and the pieces may not fit together neatly. If they are smaller, he will be tiny and the stuffing may show.
How to make a gauge swatch: With the 3.5 mm hook and ice blue yarn, make a magic ring, work 6 sc into it, then increase evenly (2 sc in each stitch, then [sc, 2 sc] around, and so on) until you have a flat circle about 4 in (10 cm) across. Measure across the middle: you should count 20 stitches in 4 in (10 cm). If you have more stitches, try a larger hook; if fewer, try a smaller hook.
Beginner Tips Before You Start
- Use a stitch marker. Place it in the first stitch of every round. Amigurumi is worked in a continuous spiral, so without a marker you will lose your place.
- Do not pull the yarn too tight. Velvet yarn has a soft pile; tight tension crushes it and makes the fabric stiff. Keep your stitches relaxed and even.
- Keep the nap running the same way. Velvet yarn has a direction (a nap). Always work with the yarn feeding from the same end so the finished pieces look evenly smooth.
- Stuff as you go. Add fiberfill before the opening gets too small. Stuff firmly but not so tightly that the stitches stretch and the white filling peeks through.
- Avoid over-frogging. "Frogging" means pulling out stitches. Velvet pills and sheds when worked repeatedly, so check your count before you rip back.
- Count every round. The stitch counts in parentheses are your roadmap. If a count is off, fix it before moving on.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Notes: Work in continuous spirals unless told otherwise; do not join rounds. All pieces use ice blue unless noted. Silver is used for antlers and leaves; charcoal for embroidery. US terms throughout.
Body (ice blue, 3.5 mm hook)
Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times. (30 sts)
Rnds 6–14: Sc in each st around. (30 sts) — 9 even rounds; the body cylinder is now approx. 2.75 in (7 cm) tall.
Rnd 15: [Sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 16: [Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18 sts)
Stuff the body firmly now, shaping it into a neat cylinder with a flat base.
Rnd 17: [Sc in next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12 sts)
Rnd 18: [Sc2tog] 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15 cm) tail. Thread the tail through the remaining 6 sts and pull closed. Weave in the end.
Head (ice blue, 3.5 mm hook)
Rnd 1: Magic ring, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnds 5–9: Sc in each st around. (24 sts) — 5 even rounds.
Rnd 10: [Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog] 6 times. (18 sts)
Stuff the head firmly now, shaping it into a rounded ball.
Rnd 11: [Sc in next st, sc2tog] 6 times. (12 sts)
Rnd 12: [Sc2tog] 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15 cm) tail. Thread through the remaining 6 sts, pull closed, and weave in the end.
Snout (ice blue, 3.5 mm hook)
Rnd 1: Magic ring, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15 cm) tail. Lightly stuff the snout. Do not close the opening — it will be sewn to the face.
Legs (make 4, ice blue, 3.5 mm hook)
Rnd 1: Magic ring, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (6 sts)
Rnds 3–8: Sc in each st around. (6 sts) — 6 even rounds; each leg is approx. 1.25 in (3.2 cm) long.
Fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15 cm) tail. Stuff each leg lightly. Do not close the top — it will be sewn to the body base.
Ears (make 2, ice blue, 3.5 mm hook)
Row 1: Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, 2 sc in last ch. Turn to work along the opposite side of the chain: sc in next ch, sc in last ch. (6 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15 cm) tail. Fold the ear in half lengthwise and pinch the base slightly to make a cupped, leaf-like ear. Do not stuff.
Antlers (make 2, silver, 3.5 mm hook)
Rnd 1: Magic ring, 4 sc into the ring. (4 sts)
Rnds 2–6: Sc in each st around. (4 sts) — 5 even rounds; the stem is approx. 1 in (2.5 cm) long.
Rnd 7: [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 2 times. (6 sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in each st around. (6 sts)
Rnd 9: [Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] 2 times. (8 sts)
Rnd 10: Sc in each st around. (8 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15 cm) tail. Stuff lightly with a few small wisps of fiberfill. Each antler is a tapered branch approx. 1.75 in (4.5 cm) long.
Leaf Appliqués (make 8, silver, 3.0 mm hook)
Each leaf is worked flat in two rows around a short foundation chain, making a simple oval leaf.
Row 1: Ch 5. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 chs, 3 sc in last ch. Turn to work along the opposite side of the chain: sc in next 2 chs, 2 sc in last ch. (9 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in last st. (12 sts)
Fasten off, leaving an 8 in (20 cm) tail for sewing. Do not weave in the tail. Gently shape each leaf into a pointed oval with your fingers. Make 8 leaves total.
Embroidery (charcoal yarn and tapestry needle)
- Eyes: Embroider two small satin-stitch ovals on the face, each approx. 0.2 in (5 mm) wide, spaced approx. 0.6 in (1.5 cm) apart, about one-third of the way down from the top of the head. (Satin stitch = straight stitches worked side by side to fill a shape.)
- Nose: Embroider a small horizontal satin-stitch oval on the front of the snout, approx. 0.3 in (8 mm) wide x 0.2 in (5 mm) tall.
- Hooves: Embroider a narrow band of straight stitches around the bottom 0.2 in (5 mm) of each leg.
- Antler tips: Add a few short straight stitches in charcoal at the tips of the antlers for a frosted accent.
Assembly and Finishing
- Attach the snout. Center the snout on the lower front of the head, below the eyes. Thread the snout tail on the tapestry needle and sew with small, even stitches, catching only the surface of the head so the stitches do not show.
- Attach the ears. Sew the ears to the sides of the head, slightly above the eye line, angling them outward. Pinch the base of each ear as you sew to keep the cupped shape.
- Join head to body. Sew the head to the top of the body, centering it so it sits directly on the cylinder with no gap.
- Attach the legs. Sew the four legs to the base of the body: two at the front and two at the back, spaced evenly. Keep the bottoms of the legs level so the reindeer stands. Sew through the body base and the top of each leg with small, firm stitches.
- Attach the antlers. Sew them to the top of the head, approx. 0.5 in (1.3 cm) apart, angling slightly outward and back.
- Make the leaf ruff. Thread one leaf's long tail on the tapestry needle. Position the leaf at the neckline where head meets body, pointed tip facing down and rounded base at the neck. Sew it in place with 3–4 small stitches through its base and center. Repeat with the remaining 7 leaves, spacing them evenly around the neck and overlapping them slightly so the ruff reads as a continuous ring of autumn leaves. Weave in all remaining ends.
Finishing: Gently fluff the velvet pile with your fingers. Check that every piece is securely attached and no fiberfill shows through the stitches. Shape the leaf ruff so the leaves fan outward and downward around the neck.
Care: Spot clean only with a damp cloth and mild soap. Do not machine wash or tumble dry — heat can crush velvet yarn.
Pro Tips and Variations
- Change the colors. Swap ice blue for snowy white or forest green, and silver for gold or copper, to make a whole herd of seasonal reindeer.
- Adjust the size. Use a thicker yarn and a larger hook (for example bulky yarn with a 5.0 mm hook) to make a bigger desk buddy. Keep the same stitch counts; only the finished size changes.
- Try a different yarn. If velvet is tricky for your first project, practice with a smooth worsted acrylic first, then make the final version in velvet once you are comfortable.
- Customize the ruff. Make 6 leaves for a sparser collar or 10 for a fuller one. You can also alternate silver and charcoal leaves for a two-tone autumn look.