Crochet Accessory Patterns

Ghost Orchid Resist Band Set Free Crochet Pattern: Moss Stitch Bands in Denim Blue & Cream

Knitting Vibes • October 27, 2026
Ghost Orchid Resist Band Set Free Crochet Pattern

Ghost Orchid Resist Band Set: A Beginner-Friendly Crochet Pattern

Welcome! This pattern is perfect for anyone who has just picked up a crochet hook for the first time and wants a finished, useful, and adorable project in an afternoon. You will make three soft, plush bands in bulky chenille yarn — two in denim blue and one in cream — each with a tiny crocheted ghost face appliqué. The finished bands feel velvety and squishy, about 2 inches wide and 18 inches long, and they close with a simple yarn loop that slips over a little yarn button. Because the stitch pattern is the forgiving moss stitch (also called linen stitch), small mistakes disappear into the texture, and you will practice only two basic stitches the whole way through.

Materials Needed

  • Yarn: Bulky (weight 5) chenille plush yarn, approximately 90 yds (82 m) per 100 g skein.
    • Denim blue: approx. 55 yds total (two bands plus their appliqués)
    • Cream: approx. 30 yds total (one band plus its appliqué)
    • Small amount of black bulky chenille for ghost eyes and mouths
  • Hook: Size J/10 (6.0 mm) crochet hook, or the size needed to match gauge
  • Tapestry needle: A large-eyed, blunt-tipped needle for weaving in ends and embroidering faces
  • Stitch markers: At least 2 (helpful for marking the first stitch of a round)
  • Scissors
  • Finished size: Each band is approx. 2 in (5 cm) wide x 18 in (46 cm) long, plus a 2 in (5 cm) yarn-button loop at one end. Each ghost appliqué is approx. 1.75 in (4.5 cm) wide x 2 in (5 cm) tall.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

  • ch — chain: yarn over the hook, pull the yarn through the loop on your hook. This makes one chain stitch.
  • sc — single crochet: insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over again, pull through both loops. One single crochet made.
  • sl st — slip stitch: insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull the yarn through both the stitch and the loop on your hook at the same time. Makes a nearly invisible joining stitch.
  • ch-1 sp — chain-one space: the small gap under a chain stitch from the previous row. You work your next stitch into this gap, not into the top of the stitch.
  • st / sts — stitch / stitches
  • sp / sps — space / spaces
  • turning ch — the chain you make at the start of a row so the yarn can reach the height of the next row. In this pattern it does not count as a stitch.
  • turn — flip your work over so you can crochet back the other direction.
  • magic ring — an adjustable loop of yarn you crochet into, then pull tight so the center closes with no hole.
  • fasten off — cut the yarn a few inches from your work and pull the tail all the way through the last loop to lock it.
  • weave in ends — thread a yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and sew it back and forth through the fabric so it disappears.
  • whipstitch — a simple sewing stitch: bring the needle up through both layers, over the edge, and back down, repeating around the shape.
  • straight stitch — a single embroidery stitch worked in a straight line, used here for the ghost eyes and mouth.
  • moss stitch (linen stitch) — a repeating pattern of single crochet, chain 1, skip the next stitch, which creates a dense, nubby fabric.

Gauge

12 sts and 12 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in moss stitch (sc, ch 1 pattern) with bulky chenille yarn on a 6.0 mm hook.

Gauge means how many stitches and rows fit into a 4-inch square. It matters because it controls the finished size: if your stitches are bigger than the gauge, your band will be too long and the loop may not fit snugly; if smaller, the band may be too short. To check, chain 17, work moss stitch for about 4 inches, and measure the middle of the swatch with a ruler. If you have more than 12 stitches in 4 inches, try a larger hook; if fewer, try a smaller hook. Gauge is not critical for fit here, but matching it gives you the measurements listed above.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

  • Do not pull the yarn too tight. Chenille yarn is fuzzy and snaps easily. Keep your tension relaxed and even, and let the hook do the work.
  • Count your chain-one spaces, not your stitches. In moss stitch you always work into the gaps, so counting the 3 gaps across each row keeps you on track.
  • Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each appliqué round so you never lose your place.
  • Work the loop and button last. Crochet the whole band first, then try it on and adjust the length before adding the closure.
  • Keep ghost face stitches loose. Tight embroidery flattens the plush chenille; loose stitches keep the appliqué fluffy.
  • Practice the moss stitch on a small swatch first. Two or three rows will teach your hands the rhythm before you begin the real band.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Notes Before You Begin

Moss stitch is worked in rows like this: sc in the ch-1 space of the previous row, ch 1, skip the next sc. Always begin rows with a ch 1 (which does not count as a stitch) and end with a sc in the final ch-1 space. Bands are worked flat in rows. Make 3 bands total: 2 in denim blue, 1 in cream. Make 3 ghost appliqués: 2 in cream (for the blue bands) and 1 in denim blue (for the cream band).

Band (make 3: 2 denim blue, 1 cream)

With band color and 6.0 mm hook, ch 7.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, skip next ch, *sc in next ch, ch 1, skip next ch; repeat from * to last ch, sc in last ch. Turn. (4 sc, 3 ch-1 sps)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * across, sc in turning ch-1 sp. Turn. (4 sc, 3 ch-1 sps)

Rows 3–54: Repeat Row 2 until the band measures approx. 18 in (46 cm), ending after a wrong-side row. Do not fasten off. (4 sc, 3 ch-1 sps)

Yarn-Button Loop

Worked at the end of the final row. Ch 8, sl st back into the same ch-1 sp at the end of the row to form a loop, sl st in next sc. Fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15 cm) tail. Weave in ends.

Yarn Button (at the opposite short end)

Join band color with a sl st at the center of the starting edge. Ch 2, work 6 sc in the first ch (or use a magic ring: 6 sc into the ring). Sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off, leaving a tail. Using the tail, sew the small button circle flat to the starting edge, centered, so the loop can slip over it. Weave in ends.

Ghost Appliqué (make 3: 2 cream, 1 denim blue)

Worked in joined rounds in the appliqué color.

Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, work 8 sc into ring, sl st to first sc to join. (8 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around, sl st to first sc to join. (16 sc)

Round 3: Ch 1, *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * around, sl st to first sc to join. (24 sc)

Round 4 (ghost skirt): Ch 1, *sc in next 3 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc; repeat from * around, sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off, leaving a 10 in (25 cm) tail. This creates a softly scalloped lower edge. (18 sc, 6 ch-2 sps)

Embroider the Face

With black chenille yarn and a tapestry needle, embroider two small straight-stitch eyes about 1/2 in (1.3 cm) apart near the top of the appliqué, and a tiny 3-stitch mouth below them. Keep stitches loose so the plush yarn stays fluffy.

Assembly and Finishing

Attach the ghosts: Pin each ghost appliqué centered on its band, about 1.5 in (4 cm) from one short end. Thread matching yarn on your tapestry needle and whipstitch around the outer edge of the ghost, catching only the back loops of the ghost and the surface of the band so the stitches stay hidden.

Check the fit: Try the band on. The loop should slip over the yarn button with slight stretch. If it is too loose or too tight, add or remove 2–4 rows before making the loop.

Weave in ends: Thread each tail onto the tapestry needle and sew it back and forth through the inside of the fabric for about 1 inch, then trim close to the surface.

Block: Gently steam-block the bands flat, holding the iron an inch or two above the fabric and never pressing directly on the chenille. Let them dry completely before wearing.

Pro Tips and Variations

  • Change the colors: Swap denim blue for charcoal and cream for pumpkin orange for a classic Halloween look, or use pastel shades for a year-round set.
  • Adjust the size: For a child's wrist, work fewer rows (about 36–40 rows) and shorten the loop to ch 6. For a wider headband, add 2–4 stitches to the starting chain and work the same Row 2 repeat.
  • Substitute yarn: Any bulky (weight 5) yarn works, but chenille gives the plush look. If you use a smoother yarn, go down one hook size to keep the fabric dense.
  • Make it a set: Add a matching coffee-cozy or keychain ghost using the same appliqué rounds for a coordinated gift.

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