Folk Ripple Cherry Crochet Sleep Shirt Free Pattern

Folk Ripple Cherry Crochet Sleep Shirt — Free Beginner Pattern

Introduction

If you have never held a crochet hook before, this is the perfect first garment for you. The Folk Ripple Cherry Sleep Shirt is made from just two flat rectangles — a front and a back — so there is no shaping, no increasing, no decreasing, and no complicated construction to worry about. You simply crochet two identical panels in a soothing zigzag (chevron) stitch, sew four short seams, and add a simple collar band and a sweet embroidered cherry on the chest. The finished shirt is relaxed and boxy, with a soft, textured ripple fabric in crisp black-and-white stripes, measuring 44 inches around the chest and 28 inches from shoulder to hem. It feels cozy and breathable against the skin — perfect for sleeping, lounging, or gifting to someone you love.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: DK weight (light worsted) merino wool, approximately 246 yd / 225 m per 100 g skein.
  • Color A (white): 4 skeins (approx. 984 yd / 900 m)
  • Color B (black): 2 skeins (approx. 492 yd / 450 m)
  • Color C (cherry red): small amount for embroidery (approx. 5 yd)
  • Color D (leaf green): small amount for embroidery (approx. 5 yd)
• Crochet hook: 4.0 mm (US G-6), or the size needed to match the gauge below.
• Stitch markers: at least 6 (to mark peaks, valleys, and seam points).
• Tapestry needle: a blunt-tipped needle with a large eye for seaming and embroidery.
• Scissors for cutting yarn.
• Measuring tape for checking gauge and measuring the finished piece.

Finished size: Chest circumference 44 in / 112 cm (relaxed fit, designed to fit a chest of 38–42 in / 96–107 cm). Body length from shoulder 28 in / 71 cm. Sleeve length from shoulder seam 9 in / 23 cm. Collar band depth 1.5 in / 4 cm.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• ch — chain: wrap the yarn over your hook and pull it through the loop already on your hook. This makes a small loop and is how you begin most projects.
• sc — single crochet: insert your hook into the next stitch, wrap the yarn over the hook, pull it up through the stitch (you now have 2 loops on the hook), wrap the yarn over again, and pull it through both loops. One loop remains.
• dc — double crochet: wrap the yarn over your hook, insert the hook into the next stitch, wrap the yarn over and pull it up (3 loops on the hook), wrap the yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops (2 loops remain), wrap the yarn over and pull it through the last 2 loops. One loop remains.
• dc2tog — double crochet 2 together (a decrease): this turns two stitches into one. Wrap the yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), pull through 2 loops (2 loops remain). Wrap the yarn over, insert the hook into the following stitch, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), pull through 2 loops (3 loops remain), wrap the yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. You have made one stitch where there were two.
• st / sts — stitch / stitches: the individual loops you work into.
• rep — repeat: do the instruction again.
• RS — right side: the front, outward-facing side of your work.
• turn — flip your work over so you can crochet back along the row you just finished.
• fasten off — cut the yarn a few inches from your work and pull the tail all the way through the last loop to lock it.
• join yarn — make a slip knot in the new yarn, place it on your hook, and pull it through a stitch on your work to begin.
• peak — the top point of the zigzag, made by working 3 stitches into one stitch.
• valley — the bottom point of the zigzag, made by skipping stitches.

Gauge

Gauge: One chevron repeat (17 stitches) = 3.75 in / 9.5 cm wide; 8 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in the chevron pattern.

Why gauge matters: Gauge is how many stitches and rows fit into a set measurement. If your stitches are bigger than the pattern's, your shirt will come out too large; if smaller, it will be too tight. Always check gauge before starting a garment.

How to make a gauge swatch: With Color A, ch 36 (2 chevron repeats + 2 edge stitches). Work Rows 1–3 of the chevron pattern, then repeat Rows 2–3 until you have 16 rows. Lay the swatch flat without stretching it and measure the width of one full 17-stitch repeat and the height of 8 rows. If your repeat is wider than 3.75 in, switch to a smaller hook; if narrower, switch to a larger hook. Repeat until it matches.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Count your stitches every row. Each row of this pattern must end with 104 stitches. Count at the end of every row until you trust the rhythm — it is the easiest way to catch a mistake early.
• Use stitch markers on the peaks and valleys. Place a marker in the middle stitch of each 3-stitch peak and in the gap of each skipped valley. This keeps your zigzag lined up row after row.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. Keep an even, relaxed tension. Tight stitches make the fabric stiff and shrink your gauge.
• Carry the unused color up the side. When you change colors, simply drop the old yarn and pick up the new one at the edge of the row. Do not cut it — you will use it again in a few rows.
• Work a practice swatch first. Crochet two or three chevron repeats before starting the real panel so your hands learn the rhythm of the peaks and valleys.
• Keep your turning chains loose. The ch 1 and ch 3 at the start of each row should be relaxed, not tight, or the edges will pucker.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Chevron Pattern (multiple of 17 sts + 2)

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first st, *sc in next 7 sts, 3 sc in next st (peak), sc in next 7 sts, skip 2 sts (valley)*, rep from * to * across, ending with sc in last st. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in first st, *dc in next 7 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 7 sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts*, rep from * to * across, ending with dc in last st. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, *sc in next 7 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts, skip 2 sts*, rep from * to * across, ending with sc in last st. Turn.

Repeat Rows 2–3 for the pattern, changing color as directed below.

Color Sequence

Work 4 rows Color A (white), 2 rows Color B (black), 4 rows Color A, 2 rows Color B, and continue this stripe sequence throughout. Carry the unused color up the side edge.

Back Panel

With Color A, ch 104 (6 chevron repeats + 2 edge sts).

Row 1 (RS): Work Row 1 of chevron pattern. (104 sts)

Rows 2–56: Work in chevron pattern following the color sequence. (104 sts)

Piece measures approx. 28 in / 71 cm from the foundation chain. Fasten off.

Front Panel

Work exactly as for the Back Panel through Row 56. (104 sts) Do not fasten off; proceed to the collar band.

Collar Band (worked directly onto the front neck edge)

Note: The collar is a straight tube band worked perpendicular to the front edge.

Row 1 (RS): With Color A, join yarn at the right front neck edge. Ch 1, work 42 sc evenly along the front neck edge to the left front neck edge. Turn. (42 sts)

Rows 2–12: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (42 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a 20 in / 50 cm tail.

Shoulder Seams

With RS facing, align the Front and Back panels. Using Color B and a tapestry needle, whipstitch or mattress stitch the shoulder seams: join 4 in / 10 cm from each outer edge toward the center, leaving a 10 in / 25 cm neck opening between the two shoulder seams.

Side Seams

Fold the piece in half at the shoulders. Starting at the underarm (approx. 9 in / 23 cm down from the shoulder seam), sew the side seams from the underarm to the hem using Color B. Leave the top 9 in / 23 cm open on each side for the armholes.

Sleeve Edging

With RS facing, join Color A at the underarm. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the armhole (approx. 48 sc). Work 2 more rounds of sc. Fasten off. Repeat for the second armhole.

Hem Edging

With RS facing, join Color A at the side seam. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the hem (approx. 104 sc). Work 1 more round of sc. Fasten off.

Cherry Embroidery (centered on the front chest, approx. 6 in / 15 cm below the collar band)

Using Color C (red) and a tapestry needle, work two satin-stitch circles side by side, each approx. 1 in / 2.5 cm in diameter, spaced 0.5 in / 1.25 cm apart. Using Color D (green), work a stem from the top of each cherry joining at a central point, then a single leaf shape in satin stitch above the stems, approx. 1.5 in / 4 cm long.

Assembly and Finishing

Seaming: Thread your tapestry needle with Color B. For a mattress stitch, lay the two pieces flat with RS facing up and bring the needle under the horizontal bar of the first stitch on one edge, then under the corresponding bar on the other edge, pulling snugly every few stitches. This creates an invisible seam. For a whipstitch, simply bring the needle through both layers from front to back in small, even stitches. Use mattress stitch for the shoulders and side seams for the neatest finish.

Weaving in ends: Thread each yarn tail onto the tapestry needle and weave it in and out through the back of several stitches (about 2 in / 5 cm), then weave back in the opposite direction for a few stitches to lock it. Trim close to the fabric.

Blocking: Lay the finished shirt flat on a towel or blocking mat and mist it lightly with water. Gently pat it to the finished measurements (44 in chest, 28 in length) and let it dry completely. Do not press the chevron texture flat with an iron — you want to keep the ripple texture.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the colors: Swap the black-and-white stripes for any two colors you love — navy and cream, sage and oatmeal, or a bold red and white for a holiday look. Keep the same 4-row / 2-row stripe rhythm.
• Adjust the size: Each chevron repeat adds 3.75 in / 9.5 cm to the width. To make the shirt smaller, chain 87 (5 repeats + 2) instead of 104; to make it larger, chain 121 (7 repeats + 2). Adjust your row count to keep the 28 in / 71 cm length.
• Try a different yarn: Cotton or cotton-blend DK yarn makes a cooler, more breathable sleep shirt for warm weather. Always re-check your gauge, since cotton behaves differently from merino.
• Personalize the motif: Instead of cherries, embroider a small star, a heart, or the wearer's initials in the same satin-stitch technique for a one-of-a-kind gift.