Cozy Alpine Cable Knit Fingerless Gloves Free Pattern

Cozy Alpine Cable Knit Fingerless Gloves: A Free Beginner-Friendly Pattern

There's something deeply satisfying about wrapping your hands in a pair of handcrafted fingerless gloves, especially when they feature the timeless elegance of cable knitting. These Cozy Alpine Cable Knit Fingerless Gloves bring the rustic charm of mountain lodges and traditional Aran knitwear right into your everyday life. The beautiful braided texture running along the back of the hand adds warmth, depth, and a touch of sophistication to any winter outfit—whether you're sipping a latte in a cozy coffee shop, typing at your desk, or taking a brisk morning stroll.

This free pattern is designed with clarity in mind, making it accessible even if you're new to cable knitting. The worsted weight yarn works up quickly, and the structured ribbing ensures a snug, comfortable fit. By the end of this guide, you'll have a gorgeous pair of gloves that look store-bought but carry the unmistakable charm of handmade care. Let's dive into this rewarding project!

Materials Needed

Before you begin, gather the following supplies. Having everything ready will make your knitting session smooth and enjoyable.

• Yarn: Worsted weight yarn in a rich forest green (approximately 150–200 yards). This amount is sufficient for both gloves. Choose a soft, durable yarn like wool or a wool-blend for best stitch definition.
• Knitting Needles: US 7 (4.5 mm) knitting needles, preferably a 16-inch circular needle for knitting in the round, or double-pointed needles (DPNs) if you prefer. Use the size needed to obtain the correct gauge.
• Cable Needle: A small cable needle (or a spare DPN) to hold stitches while working the cables.
• Yarn Needle: A tapestry needle for weaving in ends and finishing.
• Stitch Markers: At least 4 markers to keep track of rounds and the thumb gusset increases.
• Stitch Holder or Scrap Yarn: To hold the thumb stitches temporarily while you work the hand section.

Gauge: 20 stitches and 26 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch. Always knit a gauge swatch to ensure your gloves fit perfectly. If your gauge is off, adjust your needle size accordingly.

Abbreviations

Familiarize yourself with these standard knitting abbreviations before starting. I've explained each one clearly so you can work confidently.

• CO: Cast on
• K: Knit
• P: Purl
• C4F: Slip 2 stitches to cable needle, hold in front, knit next 2 stitches, then knit 2 from cable needle (creates a left-leaning cable)
• C4B: Slip 2 stitches to cable needle, hold in back, knit next 2 stitches, then knit 2 from cable needle (creates a right-leaning cable)
• K2tog: Knit two stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
• SSK: Slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
• M1: Make one stitch (increase by picking up the bar between stitches and knitting through the back loop)
• St(s): Stitch(es)

Step-by-Step Instructions

This pattern is worked in the round from the cuff up. You'll create the right glove first, then mirror the instructions for the left glove. Take your time, count your stitches regularly, and enjoy the rhythmic process of cabling.

Right Glove

Cast On and Ribbing:

CO 36 stitches. Join in the round, being extremely careful not to twist your stitches. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round to mark your starting point. This marker will stay in place throughout the glove.

Rounds 1–10: Work *K2, P2; repeat from * around. This creates a neat, stretchy ribbed cuff. Continue for all 10 rounds. The ribbing should measure about 1.5 inches.

Begin Cable Pattern:

Now you'll start the beautiful braided cable design. The pattern repeat is 18 stitches, and you have 36 stitches total, so the pattern will repeat twice around the glove. This creates a cable on the back of the hand and a matching one on the palm side for symmetry.

Round 11: *K6, P2, C4F, P2, K6, P2, C4B, P2; repeat from * once more. Let's break this down: Knit 6, purl 2, then work a C4F cable (slip 2 to cable needle, hold in front, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle), purl 2, knit 6, purl 2, work a C4B cable (slip 2 to cable needle, hold in back, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle), purl 2. Repeat this entire sequence once more to complete the round.

Round 12: *K6, P2, K4, P2; repeat from * around. This round simply knits the cable stitches without twisting them, allowing the braid to settle.

Rounds 13–14: Repeat Round 12. These plain rounds give height to the cable pattern.

Round 15: *K6, P2, C4B, P2; repeat from * around. Notice this time you're using C4B instead of C4F. This alternation creates the braided twist effect. Work the cable as described.

Round 16: Repeat Round 12.

Rounds 17–18: Repeat Round 12.

Now you've completed one full cable repeat (Rounds 11–18). Continue repeating these 8 rounds until the piece measures approximately 4 inches from the cast-on edge. It's best to end after a Round 14 or Round 18, so you're at a point where the cables are straight and not mid-twist. This makes the thumb gusset placement cleaner.

Thumb Gusset:

The thumb gusset adds stitches gradually to create room for your thumb. You'll increase on either side of a single center stitch.

Next Round: Work in pattern across the first 18 stitches (this is the back of your hand). Place a marker. M1 (make one), K1, M1. Place another marker. Work the remaining 17 stitches in pattern (this is the palm side). You now have 2 new stitches between your markers, totaling 3 stitches in the gusset section.

Increase Rounds: Continue working in the established cable pattern, but on every other round, increase by working M1 before and after the marked center stitch. Here's how:

Work in pattern to the first marker, slip the marker, M1, knit to the second marker (the center stitch is the one between your markers), M1, slip the second marker, continue in pattern to the end of the round.

Repeat this increase round every other round until you have 13 stitches between the two markers. This will take several rounds. Keep your cable pattern going on the non-increase rounds, and be careful to maintain the stitch counts on the back and palm sections. The gusset stitches are knit in stockinette (plain knit) to keep them simple.

Thumb Opening:

Once you have 13 gusset stitches, it's time to separate the thumb.

Next Round: Work in pattern to the first marker. Remove the marker. Place the next 13 stitches (the gusset stitches) onto a stitch holder or a piece of scrap yarn. Remove the second marker. Continue working in pattern to the end of the round. You now have 36 stitches on your needles again (the original count).

Hand Section:

Continue working in the established cable pattern over these 36 stitches. Work straight without any increases. Continue until the glove measures about 7 inches from the cast-on edge, or until it reaches the desired length on your hand. It's a good idea to try it on as you go. End with a complete cable repeat (after a Round 14 or 18) so the pattern looks tidy before the final ribbing.

Final Ribbing:

Rounds 1–8: *K2, P2; repeat from * around. Work 8 rounds of ribbing to create a finished edge that matches the cuff. Bind off loosely in pattern. To bind off in pattern, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches as you bind off, keeping the tension relaxed so the edge remains stretchy.

Thumb:

Transfer the 13 stitches from the holder back onto your knitting needles. With the right side facing, pick up and knit 3 stitches along the edge of the thumb opening. This gives you 16 stitches total. Distribute them evenly on your needles.

Rounds 1–5: Work in K2, P2 ribbing around all 16 stitches. Continue for 5 rounds. Bind off loosely in pattern.

Left Glove

The left glove is worked identically to the right glove, with one important difference: the thumb gusset is placed on the opposite side to create a mirror image. Instead of placing the gusset after the first 18 stitches, you'll place it after the first 17 stitches.

Follow all the same instructions for the cast-on, ribbing, and cable pattern. When you reach the thumb gusset section, work the first 17 stitches in pattern, place a marker, M1, K1, M1, place another marker, then work the remaining 18 stitches in pattern. Continue with the same increase schedule until you have 13 stitches between the markers. Then proceed with the thumb opening, hand, and finishing exactly as described for the right glove.

Finishing

Once both gloves are complete, weave in all loose ends using your yarn needle. Take care to weave securely so the ends don't pop out with wear. Block the gloves lightly by wetting them and laying them flat to dry, gently shaping them to even out the stitches and open up the cable pattern. This step makes a noticeable difference in the final appearance.

Adjusting the Length:

If you prefer longer or shorter gloves, simply add or remove rounds in the hand section before the final ribbing. Each round adds about 1/8 inch in length, so adjust accordingly. You can also modify the cuff length by working more or fewer ribbing rounds at the beginning.

Enjoy your beautiful, handcrafted Cozy Alpine Cable Knit Fingerless Gloves! They make wonderful gifts and are a joy to wear all season long. Happy knitting!